SHAOXING – Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret and Tomoa Narasaki of Japan won the women’s and men’s boulder titles respectively as the 2024 Sport Climbing World Cup opener wrapped up at the Shaoxing Keqiao Yangshan Climbing Center on Wednesday.
The men’s qualification round, scheduled for Monday, was cancelled due to rainfall. As a result, all participants competed in the semi-finals on Wednesday morning with the qualification format, with the top 20 advancing to the finals in the evening.
The 27-year-old veteran Narasaki and his compatriot Sorato Anraku, 10 years younger than him, both topped two routes and achieved four zone points in the finals. Narasaki managed to secure the gold by attempting fewer times than his teammate.
“It feels great to be back on the highest podium of the World Cup. This sets a good start for preparing for the Olympics,” said Narasaki.
Hannes Van Duysen of Belgium joined the Japanese duo on the podium.
On Tuesday, Garnbret showed her domination in the women’s category again by solving all four boulder problems in the finals with only five attempts, adding another World Cup championship to her 41-title collection.
The reigning Olympic champion, who had missed half of last season due to a toe injury, expressed her joy at returning to the field in good shape.
“This first World Cup is definitely better than last season. This year I was injury-free, and I’ve been training hard over the winter, so I felt physically strong and mentally calm and confident today,” said Garnbret.
Italy’s Camila Moroni won her first World Cup medal by topping two of the finals’ boulders for silver, while home favourite Luo Zhilu had her first podium finish in 20 months after securing a bronze.
The next leg of the IFSC World Cup will kick off in Wujiang, China on Friday.
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